Seven Stars, Shincliffe (From Durham Times)

Seven Stars, Shincliffe

2:49pm Friday 26th September 2008

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An extra star for the Seven Stars

A DEBATE has sprung forth in the Durham Times newsroom in recent weeks over the suitability of our Eating Out ratings system.

Triggered by an incensed and lengthy letter elsewhere in these pages, opinion was split: is four ticks really enough to sufficiently distinguish the quality of the dining experience?

Do writers not require more scope to describe the food quality, value, surroundings and service of their destination?

If so, how many ticks would be appropriate? Five? Ten?

The outcome of this discussion is, sources say, yet to be confirmed.

But, in advance of any announcement, I would like to make the following argument: four ticks is surely not enough for the Seven Stars.

From beginning to end, the Shincliffe venue provided an outstanding evening. I may have enjoyed a restaurant more in the past, but I cannot remember when or where.

Arriving on a damp and drizzly late-summer Friday evening, my guest and I were hoping for a warm - but more importantly dry - welcome. We were not disappointed.

A man who may have been the manager, standing at the bar as we entered, greeted us in a friendly manner, inquired as to our wellbeing and pleasantly beckoned us to a corner table in the olde worlde pub-themed reception area.

Classic spirits and wines of evenings past line the walls. Comfortable couches rub shoulders with homely bar tables.

It is not difficult to provide such a welcome. Neither is it expensive.

But it is surely worth it. My guest and I were instantly at ease and looking forward to the rest of the evening.

It was this sort of touch, replicated throughout the visit, which makes the Seven Stars stand out.

After enjoying reception drinks, we were shown into the main dining area, richly but tastefully dressed in much mahogany.

Starters, first-time visitors to the venue may note, are known as Introductions.

Adopting a "when in Rome" attitude, I was happy to give a hearty handshake to a cocotte of crabmeat with spring onion, glazed with a parmesan crumb and served with rouille croute (£6.95).

Meanwhile, my guest met with a cheek-kiss her avocado and asparagus served with ginger and pink grapefruit (£4.75).

As Introductions go, our first impressions were excellent.

For the main event, my guest chose the rosti potato, topped with spinach, cream, parsley, garlic, wild mushrooms, nutmeg and a soft-poached free-range egg and butter sauce (£9.95), while I plumped for the roast loin of Northumbrian lamb (£14.95).

Again, the uninitiated should be aware side orders are recommended.

My warm new potatoes and watercress came in at an added £1.95 and buttered spinach with garlic and nutmeg at £1.95.

This is not, however, to question the value on offer. The final bill stood at £72.15. While there will be many who would never consider spending this amount on a meal for two, there are surely also many who may consider it on a special occasion.

Indeed, my guest reported that, in her undergraduate days, she would bring her parents to these doors.

I cannot imagine Durham University student residence food, as good as it may be, comes particularly close.

When the time came for dessert, my party shared a strawberry mess and a lemon cheesecake.

I preferred the cheesecake, but this was my choice so perhaps my judgement was clouded.

Add to all of this a Pinot Noir Les Salices (£18), and you have the recipe for a very good dinner indeed.

Despite our system, a Seven Star performance.

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