Shadforth Plough and Witch Hill Restaurant, Shadforth (From Durham Times)

Shadforth Plough and Witch Hill Restaurant, Shadforth

2:59pm Friday 8th May 2009

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Meal that doesn’t quite fit the bill

FORMER Durham County Cricket captain turned businessman Michael Roseberry struck upon an ingenious marketing device a few months back, when he announced visitors to his restaurants would be invited to pay only what they thought their meal worth.

The initiative, apparently imported from the States – they do everything bigger out there, except prices – secured Mr Roseberry much free publicity in the region’s press.

But the results of the scheme have attracted much less attention.

It is perhaps fair to assume the project brought in a few extra – perhaps thrifty – diners.

But what guests deemed suitable to fork out, if the pun can be forgiven – and whether this was above or below what would otherwise have been charged – can only be speculated at.

What is now clear, however, is that the offer has expired.

When my guest and I were presented with a menu at the commencement of our evening, prices were clearly displayed. Not even a right to haggle was hinted at.

Upon settling the bill, I enquired as to the status of the discretionary bargain.

“It finished a few weeks back,”

the young man on the opposite side of the bar replied.

Somewhat disappointed – I had been looking forward to passing monetary verdict – but unsurprised, I handed over the credit card and departed into the fading summer evening.

Having said all that, it should not be assumed a night at “the Plough” need be an expensive one. Our bill for three courses and drinks totalled £45.22: probably just a little above what I would have offered, given the chance.

My guest and I entered the restaurant through the small bar, where later regulars would gather to play darts.

The dining area quietly slopes from indoor to conservatory. The décor is contemporary and simple.

There are both traditional pub and modern-looking tables and chairs. Easy listening music meandered away at a suitable background level.

However, I must admit, I was not put at ease. It seemed too open plan. The few diners who had arrived before my guest and I had seemingly scurried for tables in the few corners available – or at least adjoining a wall. The oddly arched uprights of the modern chairs looked unnatural.

However, the service was prompt and civil and as the food came and went I began, to an extent, to warm to the place.

To begin, my guest chose bruschetta topped with goat’s cheese (£4.75), which she was most positive about. Although my garlic bread (£3.50) was somewhat uninspiring, I was ready to defer judgement. What can be done with garlic bread?

The main course arrived in what seemed like seconds – perhaps even too quickly. But my vegetarian companion was again extremely complimentary regarding her mushroom stroganoff (£7.95).

My 10oz sirloin steak was fine, if not outstanding. With chips and salad, it weighed in at £13.95.

Surely a point against, though, that a steak knife was not offered.

After a long pause, I requested a dessert menu.

“There isn’t one,” I was told.

“Don’t you do desserts?” I inquired.

“They’re on the stand,” came the reply.

The desserts are made fresh each day and placed in a cylindrical, multi-tiered, rotating display case.

Keen for the walk, we rose to investigate.

From the six or seven options, my guest chose strawberry gateau with cream (£3.50), while I went for strawberry cheesecake with ice-cream (£3.50).

Having sampled each, I can report both were light, tasty and rounded off the meal nicely.

Contemplating our exit, I was intrigued to discover on the beverages menu the choices of hot white chocolate and hot mint chocolate, along with the standard variety.

Interesting, I thought; until I was informed by my guest – who is better versed in these things – that these are apparently almost commonplace.

Perhaps I had never needed to look past the wine menu, I concluded.

The Shadforth Plough offers a pleasant evening. The food is better than pub grub, although I would say not by so much as the prices suggest.

Nevertheless, diners looking for a quiet, decent meal out would not be disappointed.

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