The Stables, Beamish Hall Country House Hotel (From Durham Times)

The Stables, Beamish Hall Country House Hotel

1:49pm Friday 29th May 2009

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Stables bring a taste in a million.

IT was a case of a trip out for the old to dine in the new as my girlfriend and I celebrated my recently passed birthday at the all-new Stables pub and brewery.

The Stables, a bar, restaurant and micro-brewery, had opened to the rear of Beamish Hall Country House Hotel just three days previously, following a £1m restoration project. Sadly, I had benefited from no such makeover for my occasion.

Earlier in the week, I had tried unsuccessfully to secure a table for opening night: fully booked came the reply.

That could only be a good sign and, as Sarah and I entered the elegantly old-fashioned reception area – passing a good number of outdoor diners enjoying the dying bank holiday weekend sunshine – plenty more were to be had.

The walk to our table took us past a wall full of ale casks bearing titles such as Silver Buckle – a tribute to Beamish Hall’s most famous son, Bobby Shafto, and Old Tommy – a pale brew named after the pitman’s poet, Tommy Armstrong.

The tables were again traditional and the high-backed sloping wood chairs helped make the evening most comfortable.

Thick stone walls gave the impression of showing rebuilding work – I took my seat in front of one complete with a half-circletopped doorway which had apparently been filled in years after the original construction project.

However, the most striking and impressive feature of the main dining area was a row of walled-up stable doors, some adorned with harnesses.

The doors remained shut, the animals having long since bolted but – take it from the horse’s mouth – they complemented the overall effort very well.

Keen to put the venue’s microbrewery through its paces, I ordered a pint of Bobby Dazzler: a pale ale that slipped down most pleasantly.

For starters, I chose the natural smoked haddock with curried risotto, poached egg and coriander cream (£4.95), which was an impressive blend of flavours and came very well presented. Sarah was similarly fond of her sunblushed, marinated and beef tomatoes with goat’s cheese mousse and basil crisps (3.95).

By now, the restaurant was filling up with everyone from families entertaining children to old friends catching up to couples staring into each other’s eyes seemingly enjoying this new addition to the gastronomic market.

For the main course, I opted for Cumberland ring, which sat on a bed of mashed potato and was topped with crispy onions and red wine gravy (£7.25).

The sausage was very tasty and the mashed potato flawless, each adding to a satisfying feature presentation.

Sarah was yet more enthusiastic about her baked portobello and flat cap suet pudding with mustard cream (£6.95), saying it was “possibly the best meal I’ve eaten in a long time”, before tactfully adding that did not include anything I had lovingly slaved over a hot stove to produce.

My glass emptied, I switched to Beamish Burn, a red-coloured beer with more to say for itself than the previous offering but which I liked less for it.

During a pre-dessert interlude, we were both able to take in more of our surroundings. Although seated at a corner table which could have been better lit, we were both impressed by the setting and the effort which had clearly gone into achieving the stable feel.

This worked so effectively that when I discovered the gentleman’s facilities were to be reached by an exterior staircase, I expected to open the cubicle door to find a farming family, huddled for warmth above their agricultural beasts resting for the night one storey below.

For dessert, Sarah chose raspberry and white chocolate cream brulee, which came with two chocolate shortbread biscuits (£3.95). It was superbly done.

I also enjoyed my sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream and butterscotch sauce (£3.50), which was pleasantly light and extremely tasty.

After settling a surprisingly low bill, we made our way home: older, yes, but thoroughly satisfied.

At £1m, Beamish Hall Country House Hotel has a lot riding on The Stables. But at first sight it could prove a winner: for owner and punters alike. My advice: put your money where your mouth is and race down there soon.

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