Church Mouse, Chester Moor (From Durham Times)

Church Mouse, Chester Moor

1:49pm Friday 19th June 2009

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New look and as satisfying as ever.

HUNGRY as church mice on the return from taking some bracing fresh air on the banks of Derwent Reservoir, a re-fuelling stop was required.

Accompanied by the Five Live commentary of the Turkish Grand Prix on the car radio on the homeward journey, it soon became clear, even to us non-petrol heads, that the timing of the pit stop is obviously a key strategy in modern motor racing.

On a lesser scale, the occupants of the Eating Out-mobile were faced with a similar dilemma over when to pull in, as we left the ‘grid’ at the Pow Hill Country Park car park.

The first debate, at the Skinny Burn chicane, was whether or not to turn right to Blanchland and take our chance unbooked at the historic Lord Crewe Arms or, alternatively, veer left and have a look at the more homely-looking Punch Bowl, at Edmundbyers.

Agreement could not be reached between team tacticians and, building up a good head of steam, we motored on past the Punch Bowl, which looked to be closed anyway.

Crossing the A68 and in the slip stream of Sunday motorcyclists, we passed several other appealing looking eating venues before, under team orders, a decision was made to fall back on a familiar, but usually sound choice, the Church Mouse, at Chester Moor.

Since our last visit, which was in those seemingly distant presmoking ban days, the popular roadside destination on the A167, south of Chester-le-Street, has undergone a refurbishment.

But the layout remains largely the same with varied table sizes and settings. We found a good window seat spot in what was, pre-July 1, 2007, the “smoking end” of the premises, before making our selections.

Service is at the bar with novelty numbered spoons allocated per table. At least, they seemed to be a novelty when we first came across them but they’re probably more widespread in such venues these days.

On the drinks front, Black Sheep was the choice of ale from several options, while the Italian merlot rose was the pick from a reasonable wine list.

Food wise, there is a regular full menu, featuring a good selection of starters, followed by a range of main courses, from lists headed pub classics, mains and salads, grills, grilled chicken, plus fish dishes, with several side order offerings.

We went for soup of the day, vegetable, for £2.95, and breaded mushrooms, £3.95, which were well received, purely to quell the hunger pangs.

Given the wide choice on offer, we plumped for the relatively unadventurous, but safe fall back of turkey, from the Sunday roast list, for £6.95, and beef, mushroom and Guinness pie, £7.95, with side orders of onion rings and seasoned chips, both costing £2.

The turkey was accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, stuffing, pig in blanket, roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables, glazed parsnips and gravy, while the puff pastry pie, according to the literature, was “deep-filled with slowcooked beef”, served with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables.

Both were very good, with the drawback being that both diners felt the portion sizes appear to have receded in post-refurbishment Church Mouse.

Therefore, afters were required from the puddings list, and the apple, gooseberry and honey crumble, on one side of the table, and rhubarb and vanilla custard cake, on the other, both for £4.25, fitted the bill nicely.

A further Black Sheep, for good measure, and a fruit drink for the driver, were downed before we ventured back on the track.

The final bill was £46.65, which seemed reasonable value for the hearty mid-afternoon main meal of the day.

It may not take the chequered flag for eating out excellence, but Church Mouse is well worthy of a podium place.

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