Serving up a meal fit for a king (From Durham Times)

Serving up a meal fit for a king

12:59pm Wednesday 30th December 2009

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DECEMBER 22 marks the winter solstice, short on daylight and still three days off Christmas when most people are too busy preparing for the big day to take the time out for a Yuletide meal.

This rather lacklustre day, however, just happens to be my birthday and, despite freezing conditions, Trevor and I decided to make a return visit to one of the restaurants which had stood out in our past review list.

Wrapped up against the elements we set off for the Knights Restaurant, at the Kingslodge Hotel, in Durham City.

Glad to be in the warm and pleasant surroundings it quickly became clear that this was indeed not a night when others were venturing out with only two other tables occupied in the dining room.

We were assured that the restaurant had been busy at lunchtime and over the weekend but the Tuesday night before Christmas obviously held little appeal.

But it was my birthday and we were really quite pleased for the respite of a quiet evening out with good food – but would it live up to our first visit to the venue?

First of all we were given a menu of traditional Christmas Fayre – I asked if there was any chance to dip into the a la carte menu and a message from Steve, the same chef as last time, came back in a flash that that would be fine.

I remembered with crystal clarity how good the soup had been on visit one and decided to choose it again, particularly when I was told it was leek and potato.

It came with a delicious warm small baguette and was very tasty indeed.

Trevor selected a traditional prawn cocktail, which while a little short on presentation, was nevertheless flavoursome with a particularly nice and delicate Marie Rose sauce.

So far so good, and it was now on the main courses and here we decided to go for a complete change.

On the earlier visit, I had the most delicious calf’s liver and Trevor a sirloin steak, but on this cold night of the 22nd, he chose a warming, slowly braised beef on a bed of vegetable puree with a bacon and button onion sauce.

I decided to move on completely and had tempura of king prawns and scallops presented on a saffron and scallop roe risotto.

I tried Trevor’s braised beef and it melted in your mouth.

The prawns and scallops were delicious but the risotto was exceptional.

The main courses came with a selection of winter vegetables which were all beautifully cooked – apart from the sprouts, which sadly were soggy.

When it came to puddings, we zipped another request off to the kitchens to ask if they could whip us up a celebratory crêpe suzette.

Back came the message “no problem’’ – followed by the said crepes, which were beautiful and drenched in a delicious Grand Marnier and orange sauce – wonderful.

We hadn’t finished yet and decided to round it off with a British cheese and biscuits board served with grapes and a festive chutney.

A pot of hot coffee brought our meal to a close.

Was it as good as last time?

Yes, it was. Will we try it again? Well, that’s another story, because in February the restaurant is to be taken over by Barry O’Leary, who was one of those behind Terry Laybourne’s now renowned “21’’ chain, including the ever popular Bistro 21 at Aykley Heads in the City.

Can’t wait to give it a go under the new management.

That’s not to take anything away from the present incumbents who, I understand, will soon be taking over the reins in another city hostelry – watch this space.

Despite the imminent moves, the food lived up to our expectations and I for one was pleased we had ventured out to the Knights Restaurant.

The bill for the food was a very reasonable £51.70 with a bottle of red Merlot costing £14.50.

The Knights Restaurant will close on January 25 for approximately two weeks while renovations take place.

It will be open until then every lunchtime and each evening. A festive menu is currently available as well as a choice from the brasserie and the Kingslodge’s popular Sunday carvery will also continue.

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