Dun Cow Inn, 43 Front Street, Sedgefield (From Durham Times)

Dun Cow Inn, 43 Front Street, Sedgefield

2:42pm Friday 5th February 2010

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Where George and Tony dined.

LOCATED in a tranquil County Durham village is a pub that gained national fame during George Bush’s presidential visit to the home town of the then Prime Minister, Tony Blair, in 2003.

My partner, Sean, had also heard rave reviews about the food served at the Dun Cow Inn, in Sedgefield, so we decided to check out the pub fit for a president.

We arrived in Sedgefield just after midday on a sunny, crisp Sunday lunchtime, and after a short walk around the village, we entered the pub, which was already bustling with diners.

The bar area is light and airy, with a traditional, homely feel, but the diners-only area out the back seemed dark and dingy in comparison.

Maybe it was because the bright winter sun was pouring through the windows into the bar, but we were lucky enough to get the last free table in that area, near the entrance.

After a weekend of DIY in our newly-purchased first house together, we were more than ready for a Sunday dinner.

Having ordered our first two courses, we were presented with a basket of warm bread to whet our appetite, containing rustic chunks of crusty white and brown bread.

However, there were no side plates to serve it on. Instead, we used our serviettes. I noticed the table next to us did the same.

For starters, Sean opted for leek and potato soup (£3.50), while I decided to try the pan-fried pigeon breast with black pudding, sage and apple puree, and Cumberland sauce. Priced at £5.95, it was the most expensive starter, but it was something I had never eaten before, and was therefore curious to try.

The pigeon breast melted in the mouth. It was cooked rare, and bursting with rich, gamey flavour. The sweetness of the apple puree, and Cumberland sauce, complimented the strong savoury flavours of the pigeon and black pudding perfectly. I could have eaten the dish twice over. Sean was equally satisfied with the soup.

For mains, I chose the roast chicken and stuffing, priced at £8.95, while Sean chose the pork loin with stuffing and apple sauce, priced at £9.95.

The Sunday lunch menu also offers an array of fish dishes, vegetarian options, and beef or lamb dinners.

The chicken is served on the bone, including a leg and breast. For those who, like me, enjoy the guilty pleasure that is chicken skin, it was well seasoned and slightly crispy.

There were two large, thick slices of pork loin, with the stuffing hidden underneath.

Each plate arrived laden with meat, stuffing, roast potatoes, roast parsnips, and creamed turnip.

It would have been enough of a meal in itself, but then another two bowls arrived – one containing carrots and cabbage, and another containing a very generous helping of leeks in a creamy sauce.

The vegetables were all fresh, but we barely touched the leeks. The creamy sauce, with the rich gravy (which was home-made) proved too much of a rich combination.

We found out afterwards, having regrettably sent back quite a lot of leftovers, that the dishes are available in half portions at half the price, for smaller appetites.

After such huge, belt-busting main courses, not even a dessert menu promising all dishes to be home-made, could tempt us into grabbing a spoon. However, all desserts are priced £4.25, and include traditional favourites such as sticky toffee pudding, and baked raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake.

We thought the final bill of £31.55, which included two diet cokes, was very good value for such huge portions of excellent quality, fresh food.

We are already planning a return visit, after our next bout of DIY, to try the evening menu.

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