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Braised ox tongue with bacon and peas

2:24pm Friday 29th August 2008

WHEN we think of offal, we think of glands and organs - whereas most of what we consider "meat"

is muscle.

And therefore, by definition because it's a muscle, tongue is meat rather than offal.

However, I can imagine many who read this to already have pulled a face and decided it's not for them. Is this reaction because this particular meat comes from an animal's mouth?

Perhaps it's just because it's something so familiar, so personal, to us. After all, we're all pretty aware of our tongues. And mine frequently lets me down, running away as it does.

But tongue is an inexpensive meat, delicious and the following recipe is so very easy. I challenge you to try it.

The recipe is for at least four people and calls for a whole ox tongue. However, the tongue can weigh as much as 2kg so be prepared for leftovers for tomorrow's meal. It makes great sandwiches.

One whole ox tongue 250g unsliced bacon or gammon - cut into 1cm cubes One carrot - peeled One onion - peeled Ten black peppercorns Two bay leaves One litre chicken stock 200g frozen peas A little oil or butter for frying Method Place the tongue in a large pot along with the carrot, onion, peppercorns, bay leaves and stock.

Add enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for a couple of hours, skimming off any impurities that float to the surface as scum.

After two hours, remove the tongue and, raising the heat, reduce the liquor by half. Meanwhile, skin the tongue using a knife and then cut into cm slices.

Heat a frying pan, add a little cooking oil or butter and fry the bacon or gammon until browned and crisp. Remove and drain in a sieve to remove excess fat.

To serve, strain the reduced liquor into a clean pan, bring back to the boil and add the tongue, bacon and peas until the latter are cooked - around a couple of minutes.

Check the seasoning and spoon into warmed bowls. Lovely with crusty bread.

● Oldfields Restaurants cookbook, Passion for Real Food, is out now and available in bookshops.

For discounted copies contact the restaurant in Claypath, Durham, on 0191-370-9595 or go to www.oldfieldsrestaurants.com.

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