Oysters are a great slimming food
2:45pm Friday 26th September 2008
OYSTERS are in season. Those well-known, yet frequently avoided, edible creatures that are more often than not eaten as nature made them rather than being shown a pan.
Because theyfre one of my favourite foods, Ifve read much about oysters over the years and most books say little about the squeamish attitude displayed by those that have never tried them, concentrating rather on the practicalities of sourcing, opening and enjoying.
Itfs as if those that eat oysters wonder what all the fuss is about.
However, suggest to oyster virgins that theyfre missing something wonderful, youfre likely to find a new competitor for gurning competitions, such is the reaction to the subject. What a shame.
Letfs start with a couple of welcome facts. First, oysters are a great slimming food as theyfre very low in calories. But, at the same time, theyfre high in zinc which is essential for our production of testosterone. So maybe thatfs where the link with them supposedly being an aphrodisiac comes from. Whether thatfs the case or not, itfs better to be safe than sorry. So theyfre worth eating.
Traditionally, in the northern hemisphere, oysters are eaten in months with an grh in them. It comes from them spawning in the warmer months and being slightly smaller as a result and lacking a little flavour. But, lucky you, wefre now in September so itfs time to tuck in.
Oysters can be eaten raw, smoked, boiled, fried, roasted, stewed, canned, pickled, steamed, grilled and just about any other way you can think of cooking. Ifll give a couple of oyster recipes that we serve in at Oldfields over the next two weeks but first, itfs worth going through the basic skills needed for opening them and learning what a special treat they are au naturale, particularly when you prepare them yourself.
Like all shellfish, oysters should be as fresh as possible and demonstrate that they are alive and kicking so to speak. As with mussels, they must be able to hold their shells tightly closed.
Any that are open should close when tapped with a knife or against the work surface. Oysters that are unresponsive are dead and should be discarded.
Opening oysters requires a little skill but gets easier with confidence.
It helps to use an oyster knife but a small, thick-bladed knife will work.
Hold the oyster in a towel with the flatter half of the shell on top.
Firmly push the tip of the knife into the hinge (pointed) end and work the knife back and forth to break the hinge. As it breaks, twist the knife and lever the two shell halves apart, holding the oyster such that the liquor inside doesnft spill out.
Remove the top shell and cut loose the meat from the shell, picking out any little pieces of shell that may have broken off.
Then arrange the oysters in their lower shells on a plate, on ice if you wish but Ifm not too bothered about that and, anyway, I eat them too quickly for it to matter.
To eat, sprinkle an oyster with a little lemon juice, or maybe Tabasco sauce or some shallot vinegar. Tilt the oyster with its liquor into your mouth and then the big question. To chew or just to swallow? I donft know why this is such an issue. Its obvious to me.
Whatfs the point of just swallowing and not enjoying the wonderful taste of the sea that comes from chewing and savouring one of naturefs gifts?
However, I believe it was Jonathan Swift credited with the quote: gHe was a bold man that first ate an oyster.h I guess I can understand that but only as long itfs recognised that he was also a brave man that first faced up to a wild boar. I wonder if it was the same guy.
Oldfields Restaurants cookbook, Passion for Real Food, is out now and available in good bookshops.
For discounted copies, contact the restaurant in Claypath, Durham, on 0191-370-9595 or go to www.oldfieldsrestaurants.com.