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Mahil’s, Durham Way, Peterlee

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: Mahil's restaurant relies on its reputation to draw in customers  and is well worth a visit
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: Mahil's restaurant relies on its reputation to draw in customers and is well worth a visit

FOR even the most accomplished cook, turning your hand to dishes from the sub-continent is testing to say the least.

No matter how carefully you follow the recipe, it's never quite as good as the fare presented in Indian restaurants.

Even the pre-packed dishes lining the shelves of every supermarket in the land never quite come up to scratch.

Now as familiar as any British grub, there is nothing to match the waft of restaurant-made Indian dishes to set the culinary juices flowing.

That said, however, there are very obviously good and bad Indian restaurants - from the exquisite Vujon on Newcastle's Quayside and the International Tandoori in Ocean Road, South Shields, to the humblest back street takeaway, there is a myriad of excellent to barely acceptable in between.

The tendency for all of us is to stick with the ones we know and only rarely try somewhere different - a failing which I am as guilty of as the next. Therefore, when presented with a list of eateries to try and test, I decided to go for a Durham-based Italian restaurant last Sunday night.

When I found it was closed on a Sunday, I had to change course and plumped for an Indian restaurant about a mile from where I live.

Off the beaten track in the heart of the upmarket Oakerside Park residential estate on the edge of Peterlee, Mahil's Indian Restaurant, I willingly admit, was not my first choice.

But it was just around the corner and I had heard some good reports about it, so Trevor and I set off to give it a go.

Not its busiest night, the restaurant was almost empty when we arrived, but we were greeted warmly and shown to a table in the pleasant dining room where the sunlight was still streaming through the window.

We first ordered a bottle of red wine which was not available and selected an Australian Pilandra - slightly edgy, but palatable, nonetheless. It was interesting to see the wine list included the delicious and classic white Sancerre.

The menu was pretty standard, and it is a pity I hadn't known beforehand that Mahil's specialises in Nepalese dishes.

Creature of habit that I am, I selected a prawn puri, which at £3.60 was fresh and flavoursome.

Trevor went for chicken tikka at £2.80, which was plentiful and, as he described, tasty and good value.

On to the main course and I chose chicken tikka (£6.50) with a tarka dall (£3.50), and Trevor chose a chicken tikka jalfrezi (£5.95), with a mixed vegetable curry side dish (£3.50). I had a peshwari nan and Trevor selected a plain nan at £2.20 and £1.90.

My dish came sizzling to the table with more chicken than I could begin to eat, but it was very good.

The dall was excellent - just the right texture and full of flavour.

My peshwari nan was delicious and just the thing to dip into the dall.

Trevor was pleased with his dishes, particularly the vegetable curry, which he declared to be light and aromatic.

One small flaw emerged at this point, however, when I asked the waiter, a very helpful young man named Shaun, for a glass of tap water - "we don't do tap water,'' he said, disappointing for a restaurant which advertises its use of "cholesterol-free oil'' in its long list of dishes.

At a time of a growing need to look after our planet, may I suggest that all restaurants should "do tap water".

That aside and a little too much coriander on all the dishes, the food was fresh, tasty and nicely presented and, though the restaurant was quiet, there was a constant stream of people popping in to pick up takeaway meals.

Because of its location, Mahil's relies very much on its reputation.

Opened six years ago by the Mahil family, it has, I have now learned, continued to flourish.

The food was good, proving the point that you should always try somewhere new. I would certainly recommend it and will add it to my list of worthwhile-visiting Indian restaurants.

11:27am Friday 23rd May 2008

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