Ristorante De Medici Elvet Bridge Durham (from Durham Times)

The etiquette of polite dining is now so obscure that if any two people were to attempt to write it down, they would surely settle on very different products.

How should wine be drunk? Have I got something in my teeth? I hope I am not alone in worrying about such things.

Given this paranoia, my heart sank and stomach jumped when a friendly waiter - who seemed to be in charge - showed my guest and I to a table adjacent to a huge mirror. My mistakes were to be broadcast around the restaurant.

Wonderful. Not only that, I was in the front row. Should I glance to the left, I would see myself savagely tucking in to whatever offering I happened to me munching through at that moment in time.

How I wished we had timed our arrival differently so that we may be given the table - surely the prize location - at the opposite end of the dining area, in a bay window overlooking Elvet Bridge and the bustling Friday nightlife below.

The mirror - and others covering almost every available inch of wall space - made this small first-floor ristorante feel relaxed and friendly. The bright lighting also contributed, encouraging parties to feel able to talk freely, joke, laugh and - on two occasions - sing Happy Birthday.

Though the tables were close together - slim waiters only need apply - and by the peak of the evening every seat in the house was taken, I never felt claustrophobic.

Rather, a sense was created that we were all spending the evening together - one party enjoying the fare.

My guest and I were attended to quickly and each course - particularly the starter - was returned promptly, impressively so.

I began with calamari fritti (deep-fried squid, £4.95), which was praiseworthy, although would have moved up a further notch had it been accompanied by a sauce; while my guest was very complimentary about the caprese (Mozzarella cheese and tomato slices, £5.75).

Sadly, I was less so about the house red wine (£9.95 per bottle), although it slipped down more pleasurably with the pesce spada (swordfish cooked in chilli, garlic, white wine and tomatoes with fresh mussels, £13.50), which was excellent, though too much for one man - or this one man at least - to tackle.

My guest, a vegetarian, expressed approval at the options available to her variety of diner, and reported the penne all'arrabiata (pasta with a spicy garlic and chilli sauce, £6.95) also a positive experience.

Our only negative came at the end of the evening, as we attempted to pay our bill and make our way. The staff did not seem at all keen - even willing - to take our money. It was a quite peculiar experience.

The thought entered my head several times - though I should say I am sure not that of my more honourable guest - as to how long one should wait after finishing a meal, having made numerous attempts to ask for and pay the bill through a range of facial contortions and expressions, to leave without settling one's debts.

We must have sat 20 or 25 minutes having made it clear we were finished before we were legally able to depart.

Others might consider this part of the relaxed, friendly atmosphere and it may even be the Italian way. But it did become frustrating.

No-one enjoys giving away money. To have to work hard to do so is even less fun.

However, that apart, as my guest and I rejoined the Friday evening continuing below, we left very much satisfied.

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