Treetops, Shincliffe

12:04pm Friday 1st August 2008

"HELLO. Mr and Mrs Parker? Welcome.

How are you this evening?"

Our waitress greets us on the steps of Treetops, a pan-Asian restaurant and hotel in Shincliffe village, holding the door open as wide as her friendly smile.

It's a nice touch, indicative of the first-class service we're about to enjoy. But also, sadly, reflecting how few diners there are on this Thursday night - namely ourselves and another couple.

Sipping gin and tonics, we take in the first of a number of contradictions between the surroundings and the type of Asian restaurant it is. Kenny G-type background music wafts across the rather dated lounge. A glance shows heavy panelled walls, deep red carpet and old fashioned leather upholstery - the kind of furniture you expect to see some old Colonel sitting on, smoking a thick Cuban cigar and discussing politics in a booming voice.

The dining room itself is not much better, some new pleasant touches being undone by old fashioned, cloth-covered seating clashing with new suede chairs.

Neither say Asian, neither appeal.

And, yet, the Asian staff, led by effusive manager Jackie Ho, are bright and attentive, and a glance at the menu reveals promising dishes offering fresh twists on traditional Asian cuisine.

Mike opts for salt and chilli ribs (£7.50) to start with and they arrive piled high with an abundance of meat which falls off the bone.

Each bite leaves a satisfying tingle at the back of the mouth. My chicken and mango roll (£8) is crisp and filled with meat and works well with the accompanying honey dressed salad.

The main course is equally delectable.

Mike's dish of Korean fillet of beef (£15) is plentiful with four juicy pieces infused with a lightly spiced, pepperyness.

Meanwhile, the belly pork (£14) is tender and juicy and comes with a mild but flavoursome sauce garnished with spring onions. Each of the main dishes is served with either fried (£3.50 extra) or boiled rice (£3.20) or noodles. Other menu options include teriyaki seabass in a sweet Japanese soya sauce and Harbin butterfly prawns pan fried in a fresh strawberry sauce - delicious sounding and conjured up by head chef Alex Shek. His food is different, exciting even, and deserving of many more food-conscious diners. So, why isn't the restaurant full?

A chat to Ms Ho reveals Treetops is a family business with another restaurant in Corbridge, Northumberland. The family had formerly run Mandalay in Jesmond but found the area increasingly awash with students. (Perhaps Durham's not the best place to come to escape students).

But while they've picked a restaurant outside of the city walls, it means that without a city centre location they're relying on passing trade and repeat custom.

And how many passing would guess that a high quality pan- Asian restaurant exists there?

Business is building slowly, she says, and asks us for our feedback.

The prices could be a little too steep for a restaurant outside of the city, we suggest, but add that we cannot fault the quality of the food. Perhaps a promotion or two? We already run an early bird, two courses for £15, she says.

They've tried a few other advertising options.

Then we take a look at the dessert menu and find an array of very traditional dishes, the kind you'd find in Ye Olde English pub, from sticky toffee pudding to lemon tart (£4.50). We opt for the latter. It is light and refreshing and excellent with a buttery base - but not exactly Asian.

Mr Shek, it emerges, has experimented with Asian desserts and has tested some of his dishes on diners. More may follow and the sooner the better, we say.

Along with a reasonably priced bottle of house white, a Sauvignon Blanc at £12.90, we follow dessert with tea. Mike opts for a delicate red Oolong tea but it arrives in a clunky, thick white English breakfast cup and sauce. The final bill comes to £81.50 for two courses, one dessert, a bottle of wine, two G&Ts and two speciality teas. Outside of the Early Bird, the a la carte and speciality menu are similarly priced - and, to the undiscerning eye, are similar in their mouthwatering descriptions.

However, to see its restaurant buzzing regularly, Treetops may benefit by sacrificing one for a more simple, affordable menu.

This would make Mr Shek's considerable culinary skills far more palatable on the wallet.

Sweet and sour sauce may blend together perfectly, but, sadly, the outstanding service and delicious food at Treetops don't mix quite as well with the venue in its current livery. Judging by the quietness of the restaurant, it doesn't appear to be a place people immediately think of when looking for cutting edge cuisine, unless they're repeat or loyal customers.

Overall it's rather a shame.

It's well worth a visit.

Eating Out